Naxos

My wife and I arrived on the island of Naxos on the Bluestar from Santorini the evening before, drawn by the promise of crystal clear waters and ancient ruins, to spend a few days exploring before heading to Mykonos. Outside of Crete, Naxos is my favorite island in the Cyclades. Less of a party destination than Mykonos, and not as expensive and manicured as Santorini. The island is one of the Aegean’s perfect experiences. It’s easy to see why Homer took so long to return from here. 

We did little that first night other than get settled into our hotel before heading out to the island’s main feature, Apollo’s Gate, to sit and watch with other visitors as the setting sun pierced the opening of the temple as it sank beneath the horizon while we contemplated the beauty of it all. But, oh, the next day. What an adventure we would have. 

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The late morning drifted by as we swam in the lagoon below the gate, the Aegean stretching out beyond the breakwater in a deep blue expanse while the city of Naxos provided a pure white contrast to the cerulean sky. 

After lunch we walked the streets and alleys, going deeper into the whiteness — bougainvillea bursting red against the marble and stone buildings, blue doors and white bordered granite streets beckoning us deeper into the city’s embrace. We eventually, and happily, arrived at the top of a large hill and the Archaeological Museum of Naxos and viewed the tile mosaics while overlooking the town from above.

As the evening's shadows lengthened across the white-washed village, my wife and I found ourselves drawn to the harbor-side tavernas with a view of Apollo’s Gate. The salty tang of the Aegean hung heavy on the air, and the sound of Raki raised with the toast of Yiamas! filled the warm evening.

We took a seat at a small table on a balcony overlooking the water and ordered. Soon we were presented with a platter of Horiatiki and a plate of saganaki, which hissed and spit in the small, scalding hot, cast-iron skillet, before being set aflame by the waiter using a bit of ouzo. 

I took a bite and was immediately transported to a state of total satisfaction. The cheese was rich and salty, with a texture that was both creamy and slightly crumbly, with a slight taste of anise from the liquor. As I savored each bite, I couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude for being in this magical place wash over me.

As we sat there, the sun slowly dipped below the horizon, and the ancient ruins of Apollo's Gate faded into the night. I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe at the history of this place, and the reminder of a fundamental law of life and why we travel; it was moments like these, surrounded by natural beauty and enjoying the simple pleasures in life, that made life worth living.

Greek Saganaki

Saganaki is a delicious and simple Greek appetizer made with cheese and a few pantry staples. Here is a traditional recipe for making saganaki at home:

Ingredients:

• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 8 oz Kasseri cheese. You can substitute with halloumi, Manchego, or paneer as well. 
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/4 cup (2 ounces) ouzo 

Instructions:

1. Slice the cheese lengthwise, 1/2-inch to 1-inch thick. 
2. Sprinkle flour evenly over a large plate and dip the cheese in the flour, dredging until lightly coated on all sides.
3. In a small cast-iron or stainless steel skillet over high heat, heat the oil until it shimmers. 
4. Carefully place the flour-coated cheese into the oil. Remember to lay the cheese in away from you. 
5. Fry on one side about 2 minutes until golden and crisp. Then flip, again flipping away from you, and fry the other side another 2 minutes until golden and just starting to melt.
6. Remove from the heat.
7. Have a pot lid handy in case you need to cover the pan to suppress the flames and make sure that nothing is hanging over the pan.
8. Pour the ouzo over the cheese. DO NOT POUR DIRECTLY FROM THE BOTTLE. 
9. Using a stick lighter or long match, carefully set the ouzo aflame. 
10. As the cheese flambes, carefully shake the pan gently to help disperse the flame until extinguished and the alcohol is burned off. 
11. Serve immediately. 

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